Time Capsule Power supplies non-existent. DIY Cheap and easy fix.

After some testing using a 1.5 amp power supply both on the 12v an 5v sides. This standard Chinese made single-harddrive power supply is doing it’s job. The time capsule appears stable.

The issue with these little home server capsules is that there is a tiny amount of space and not very much ventillation. The standard power supply gets hot and replacing it isn’t that easy.

Here’s some notes to remember while looking at the project picture set: there are 3 large pins that need to be desoldered and each pin has between 1 and 5 pins.

1 wire pin = 12 volt yellow wire from mullex.

4 wire pin = 5 volt red wire from mullex.

5 wire pin = 2 black ground cables.

Make sure to double check that the 4 and 5 wire pins are soldered to the right colors. When ever you hear this “make sure” part of a tutorial it usually means something went wrong on the author’s end.

Begin, now:
1 ] To take the time capsule apart, heat the bottom with a hair dryer or I used a floor heater. Mmm hotlectric. Rip it off any way you want. I recommend not putting it back on.

2 ] Below I remove the power supply after I get the metal bottom plate off by unscrewing all the poor little screws. I’m caressing the power supply because it’s about to be decommissioned.

3 ] After getting the power supply out of there, you must de-robe it by taking off all of the crisply plastic layers. Be careful, this power supply could contain a high charge. Don’t touch anything long and tubular or the contacts coming out of them. Non-bleeding capacitors are not as safe as their safer bleeding brothers.

4 ] Notice above: my hot poker soldering iron is pointed to the 3 pins that pierce the green daughter board. This is where black groups of wires connect to the power supply that we want to permanently disconnect. Below I’m stabbing/digging/murdering the green silicon with a hot iron to bring justice. This swift and sorry to say absolute justice will disconnect the pins from the board.

5 ] Below notice the black cable that I pried off of the now-removed power supply. We need to make this molex connector work with these black cables. By memory: the black bundled cable has 3 pins and two power plugs and I call the “power split.” The “power split” has 3 pins containing 5 wires on one pin (this pin is ground = needs to be soldered to the two black molex wires), 4 wires (5v = red molex wire), 1 wire (12v = yellow molex wire). See a hand solder* these together.

*If your new to soldering, and you have a crappy as all hell soldering gun like I have, the key is to get these things to metallically meld together. Get the connection wires/pins to be as close together as possible when soldering. I did this by getting pliars, and clamping tight around the pin/wire connection. Second is getting the melted solder on the cheapass gun first then holding it on the connection for just a little while, then globbing it on as needed. The test is a semi-firm pull.

6 ] Below I cut a space big enough so that the molex female (female because it accepts the most amount of plug, ignoring the pins) can firmly be snapped into place. If you glue it, your a dumbass…because you’ll probably mess something up later on and need to repair it. Hot glue; you might as well be crossing your fingers for good luck–THAT is going to do no good for you here. Using your brains will give you the most amount of “luck.”

7 ] Below: Here I just put some insulating plastic to keep the wires from touching. This is many layers of box packing tape. I am not too fond of electrical tape, as it’s adhesives seem to unstick over smaller amounts of time. It could be due to the midwest’s humidity. Use what you feel comfortable with.

8 ] Apparently the routing of the wires internally is a top secret as I don’t have that picture here. [ to be inserted later ]

9 ] All done. After connecting the sata power to the internal hard drive, and the power to the motherboard, routing the wires, it seems to be fully operational doctor !


Compaq f500 or f560us arcing power port

This campaq laptop has it’s own dc in board which is a good thing if the jack goes bad as the part is pretty cheap. But with this little number the dc-in board lights up fine when not connected to the motherboard and powered on.

Then as soon as the part is connected back with both the power cable and USB data line to the motherboard the power adapter emits sparks in the dc jack. This surmises that it’s the moherboard that’s bad. There are repair services on eBay when searching for “f500 motherboard” – no quotes.

Facebook Suicide(?): Where’s that checkbox that lets us not login for X amount of days..

Friends say in passing that it would be cool to be able to just get rid of their Facebook account. The ones that actually follow through usually peak their heads back in a few weeks to a month later. They do it due to excessive drama, being addicted to and having excessive logins/day, simply have too much going on in their lives, having a large amount of annoyance towards Facebook building over time, or they just want a vacation: whether it be in their house or in Hawaii and don’t want to sling along their monotonous internet routine.

The idea conceived below could then allow you to accomplish that research paper, smell the roses, and try something new with your free time. I had a friend say to me once that she’d log in just to see if there were any new posts on her home page. She was annoyed that nothing had happened in the past 5 logins. ( But annoyed at what?)

Email is one thing, but Facebook Acid (logging in constantly) is another. Provoking a breaking-the-habit mentality would be either to create an app or write Zuckerberg about including an option that would simply give the user physical control over their addiction or annoyance. (In software)

[ ] Facebook Acid Addiction Control 1, 3, 5, 10 days

Check the box, select number of days and click OK, and you’ve been set free. (For now, mWahhahah. It’s christmas/buddha/quanza time–there’s bound to be a strenuously scary laugh somewhere)